I have to first start off with the usual conservator trope: It all depends. The dress and the different components that make it must be assessed to determine if water vapor can be safely introduced, depending on the physical condition of each media present. Always use the purest water possible (whether distilled or deionized).
So in no particular order: is the crepe really silk or one of the early man-mades (i.e. rayon; acetate; a blend)? Is the crepe fabric dyed? Is the dress embellished (i.e. embroidery; beading; feathers; sequins; etc.) and the physical condition of the media(s) for those embellishments? What are the media of any embellishments? The physical condition of the dress fabric(s) – are there additional layers such as interfacing; linings; facings or previous conservation treatment(s) that included additional layer(s) of fabric, attached via hand sewing and/or with an adhesive? Is the physical condition of the dress and its components good enough to take the handling needed to manipulate the layers (i.e. separating the front from the back)?
Moving on to the wrinkling itself – wrinkles; foldlines; creases – how extensive and where located? The dress is a 3D object – so the wrinkle; foldlines; creases are present on both the front and the back? From my decades (!) of experience of dealing with contour problems in fabrics and textiles, I have found that introducing water vapor (only cool temperature; not hot temperature) is not enough without also using weights on top of the wrinkles; foldlines; creases that are dampened. The technique is called contact humidification. There are supplies, time and handling that is needed to use this particular method.
So summing up finally, in answer to your specific question: "Is steaming with distilled water a safe method" – Probably not, as just introducing water vapor will not release the wrinkles; foldlines; creases enough to eliminate them visually (the whole point, right?).
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Margaret Geiss-Mooney
Costume/Textile Conservator
meg@textileconservator.com(707) 763-8694
Springfield, OR
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Original Message:
Sent: 04-29-2025 11:02
From: Karen Jones
Subject: Wrinkled Silk Crepe
Hi Ashley,
As the acting C2C Care community monitor, I'd like to thank you for posting this question to the community. Textiles are not my area of expertise, but I'm sure you'll get some good responses. And there are some good C2CC references available to you. Check out Live Question and Answer Session on Storage and Handling of Textiles among other webinars on the
https://connectingtocollections.org site. There is also a Textiles Wiki to reference: Textiles
Additional guidance can be found via the AIC Find a Professional service https://www.culturalheritage.org/about-conservation/find-a-conservator. As in all treatments, proceed with caution. Good luck with your project!
Best, Karen, C2C Care monitor
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Karen Jones
Book and Paper Conservator
Freelance/Private Practice/Self-employed/Independent
Denver CO
Original Message:
Sent: 04-28-2025 10:51
From: Ashley Buzzanca
Subject: Wrinkled Silk Crepe
Hello all,
We are putting a 1920s era silk crepe dress out on display and it is pretty heavily wrinkled, though stable. What methods of de-wrinkling would you all recommend? Is steaming with distilled water a safe method?
Thank you in advance for any advice!
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Ashley Buzzanca
Registrar
Kentucky Historical Society
Frankfort
United States
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