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  • 1.  Cleaning wooden crane model

    Posted 06-29-2023 10:46

    Hello! I need some advice on dusting a model of an Ancient Greek Crane made of wood. 

    I first plan to dust it with a soft brush and the hep vac, but I know this will not get all the dust. I think they used an oil based lacquer on the wood which is causing some of the dust to stick. What to you think the best method would be to get the stuck dust off without damaging the coating or wood, or should I even try?

    Thanks so much!



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    Bonnie Seymour
    Registrar and Assistant Curator
    The Parthenon
    Nashville TN
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  • 2.  RE: Cleaning wooden crane model

    Posted 06-30-2023 10:37

    Hi Bonnie,

    Thanks for your question. As your wording and the length of this response indicate, cleaning beyond dusting can be fraught, especially when you have a guess but not definitive knowledge about the surface you're working with. The safest option for this level of intervention is to contact a professional conservator, who will be able to examine and test the object to determine the best method of cleaning.

    If you do opt to carry out a cleaning yourself, one resource is the National Park Service's Curatorial Care of Wooden Objects, which offers guidance (pasted below) on the question, "Do furniture and wooden objects require more than thorough dusting?" Please be aware, though, that conservators with wooden object expertise offered several caveats to accompany the guidance, which I will also share below. 

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    From the NPS:

    Periodically these require cleaning to remove oils and grime. Objects in storage may need to be cleaned only every ten years while those on exhibit will require cleaning approximately every three years. More frequent cleaning may be necessary if visitors occasionally touch the pieces. 

    • Use mineral spirits, such as Stoddard solvent or naptha, on greasy types of soils and hand oils. First test a small inconspicuous area with a cotton swab dipped in mineral spirits. If the finish does not get tacky and no finish comes off on the swab, you may begin careful cleaning with a cotton cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Work in a well ventilated area and wear vinyl gloves. Turn the cloth frequently and wipe the object down with a clean, dry cotton cloth after cleaning. Note: Some 18th century pieces may still have their original wax finish. Consult your regional/SO curator and a conservator before cleaning furniture that you suspect has an original wax finish. 
    • Use soap like Vulpex®, Ivory®, and Orvus® and water to remove smoke and soot from stable finishes. Follow manufacturer's instructions for dilution. Never use detergent because it will leave a film on the surface. Again, test a small inconspicuous area before cleaning the entire surface. Wring the cloth well before wiping. When finished, wipe the piece again with a cloth dampened in clear water and then again with a dry cloth. Do not moisten a damaged, veneered, or inlayed surface. 

    Only furniture with a sound finish should be cleaned. (p. 18)

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    On making the decision about whether to clean beyond dusting, conservator Andrea Chevalier advised working with a conservator, noting that "There are too many unknowns about the surface...Using any of the products in the NPS guidelines without guidance could be problematic on the unknown surface. Using mineral spirits on the sticky surface may not be as straightforward as they think." Conservator Rachael Perkins Arenstein pointed out, "For some kinds of wood objects e.g. African wood sculptures which had oils or coatings applied as part of ritual or use or for historic furniture where the original finish is prized, cleaning using solvents has the potential for damage or removing part of the object's history. That is why we often encourage people to stick to dry cleaning methods." However, if the surface of the crane is not considered historically significant, Rachael felt that the NPS guidelines could be generally appropriate.
     
    On a more technical level, Rachael clarified that "an oil coating is different from a lacquer. Sometimes there are both. Sometimes just one. I would expect a lacquer/varnish/coating to be a distinct layer on the surface. Oiling the surface might have been done if there was no other coating to give a saturated appearance to the wood.  In that case I wouldn't see a problem removing it if it was unattractive as long as it didn't solubilize anything underneath or affect the wood." She also cautioned that, "If the solvent testing as outlined [by NPS] results in blanching or hazing then I would recommend calling a conservator."
     
    As you can see, both the cleaning process itself and the decisions around it are complicated. Although I can't offer a clear-cut answer here, I hope this information will help you decide on the best path forward for your particular situation. Please feel free to write again if you have more questions!
    Thank you,
    Rebecca


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    Rebecca Smyrl
    Connecting to Collections Care Monitor
    Assistant Conservator for Special Collections
    UNC Chapel Hill Libraries
    Chapel Hill NC
    (919) 962-4250
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  • 3.  RE: Cleaning wooden crane model

    Posted 06-30-2023 10:38

    Hi Bonnie,

    Do you have some images of the piece you might be able to share? It would be helpful to get a sense of the surface quality to answer this question. Is the surface tacky to the touch at all? Are there 'dry'/splintered areas that might be disrupted? You mention the surface appears to be lacquered -- are there any painted designs? 

    A few initial thoughts -- all with some caveats, and specific to the material as you are currently describing it-- listed from readily available materials to more specialized. This is assuming the surface is smooth, robust, and stable, without friable painted decorations that could be disrupted:

    • A soft microfiber cloth can be helpful in picking up additional dust, just be aware of little areas that can "catch".
    • Latex-free cosmetic sponges (polyurethane foam) can be nice. You can cut the sponges to shape to fit into small areas, and use very minimal pressure, lightly wiping across the surface. Test in a small area first to make sure its only picking up dust. These can easily be purchased on Amazon. 
    • Test this in a small, discreet area first, but very lightly dampening the cosmetic sponge with saliva can work to pick up embedded dirt and grime. Conservators often use saliva because its not too wet and its a very effective cleaning agent (there's a reason moms lick their thumb to wipe something off their kids face!). Just don't drink coffee or have lunch right beforehand :) I often lick the back of my hand and then wipe the sponge across the area to pick some of the saliva. I realize there might be an "ick" factor here; there are synthetic salivas on the market if that's of interest...
    • Groomstick* could work. This is a rubber, and you can gently press/dab it to the surface or roll it across to pick up more embedded dust.
    • Dry cleaning soot sponges* can also be useful, but only on more robust, smooth, stable surfaces. These can be cut down to shape as well. The surface is not as smooth as the cosmetic sponges; there are lots of wide pores that increases the surface area of the sponge so it picks up soot. 

    *I have linked to Talas for the latter two products, which is a go-to conservation supplier, but these products can be found elsewhere. 

    Not knowing what the applied surface is, what it could be soluble in, etc, I would avoid any liquid products at this stage, for fear of blanching or disrupting the coating you are describing.  I'd be happy to look at photographs to help consult further. I hope this is helpful in the meantime. 

    Best,

    Rebecca



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    Rebecca Gridley
    Associate Conservator
    Art Conservation Group
    Long Island City, NY
    rebecca.ec.gridley@gmail.com
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  • 4.  RE: Cleaning wooden crane model

    Posted 06-30-2023 12:37

    Hi Bonnie,

    I worked a few years on maritime model collection and for the layers of dust with a higher lever of adherence on unfinished wood surfaces (or only waxed finish) we would use either a dry cleaning sponge (Wishab) or, a White Staedtler eraser. Rub the surface softly, preferably on the sense of the wood grain, with a vacuum on hand to catch the sponge/eraser particles as you don't want those to get into tiny gaps of the object. Both are very effective methods (dry and safe) and with no dangerous residues. Do not hesitate to reach out, I'm happy to help if you face specific issues!



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    Nidia Navarro-Potel
    Collections Care Conservator
    Biltmore Estate
    Asheville NC
    (848) 252-9518
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