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  • 1.  climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-12-2026 14:10

    Hi all, looking for thoughts/advice on how best to prepare for an upcoming daylong planned shutdown of our HVAC system. Our 2150 sqft building is well-insulated, and was constructed in 2008.

    There will be a period (about one working day - the exact day is TBD) when the forced air heat in our house gallery will be turned off, because contractors will be jackhammering concrete in the downstairs bathroom and creating very fine dust that could circulate through the heat system if it were on. Heat will be shut off in January in NY state (outside temperatures expected to be anywhere between 20-50 degrees F).

    All artworks on the lower level have been removed. Upstairs, spread across 3 rooms there are 2 large color photos mounted to dibond, one framed and glazed (plexi) inkjet print, glazed stoneware, unframed wool felt quilted textile, and aluminum sculptures. This small house museum is usually temperature controlled, but not climate controlled. My biggest concern is for the photographs -- though of course those do well in low temperatures, I can't anticipate how gradual the temperature drop will be.

    The question is whether we request contractors install one or more space heaters on the main floor (1300 sqft), or whether this might create dangerous pockets of dry, hot air. I am conflicted: would be better to leave the upstairs completely closed to the contractors, anticipating a slow drop in temperature over a day without heat? The risk of course is that this work might take more than one day. 

    Thank you all so much for your help making this decision--I am a bit stumped!



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    Cara Kuball
    Contract Registrar
    Forge Project
    Stone Ridge
    United States
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  • 2.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-14-2026 13:51

    Hi Cara, 

    My instinct would be to insulate the upstairs spaces as well as you can to slow down the environmental changes in those spaces. The danger is really in mechanical damage caused by rapid fluctuation in relative humidity. Because it's the winter, the RH will likely increase in the space as the temperature drops, which isn't necessarily a bad thing in the short term - you just don't want it to happen too fast. Depending on the layout and insulation of the upstairs rooms, you could try shutting doors, covering gaps in doors and windows with moving blankets, foam, or other insulating materials, and not opening those spaces while the climate control is off. It would also be helpful to monitor the temperature and RH in those spaces during the project. 

    Best, 

    Maddie 



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    C2CC Monitor
    Madeline Cooper
    Preventive Conservator
    MC Conservation
    Philadelphia PA
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  • 3.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-14-2026 13:52
    Hi Cara,

    A few suggestions. First, if you have ever had a power outage or an HVAC failure during the winter, check your environmental data for that period to see what happened to the temperature and RH conditions upstairs, and check the historic temperature and RH conditions outdoors over the same period. This would give you a good idea of how quickly conditions change on the upper floor.  You can then check your trusty psychrometric chart to see what would happen to the RH if the temperature dropped at that rate for 24 hours.  As long as you are not handling the photos or the framed print while they are extra cold, I would not worry about damage from the low temperature itself.  

    Second, of the works remaining on that floor, I believe that the only two that might possibly be damaged by a greater than 10% increase in RH would be the large color photos mounted to Dibond. The risk of this happening depends on several variables but I suspect it would remain low under these circumstances. Nevertheless, should you wish to avoid a larger fluctuation, you could use space heaters to add some heat, just enough to keep the RH from rising too much.  

    Third, if your walls are truly well insulated this should not be necessary, but if you want to be even more cautious you could remove any objects from exterior walls. 

    Hope this helps!


    Fiona Graham, MAC, CAPC, CAHP
    she / elle
    Graham Conservation
    27 Livingston Ave., Kingston ON K7L 4L1 Canada
    +1 613-888-2915

    I live in Katarokwi (Kingston, Ontario) on the traditional lands of the Anishinaabe and Haudenosaunee peoples. 









  • 4.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-14-2026 13:52

    Hi Cara,

    If your building is well-insulated then I think one day without heat should be fine.  I would not add space heaters.  Instead, shut the doors to the upstairs space to maintain the temp/RH as long as possible after the HVAC is shut down.  I think it is better than having construction staff going in and out and setting up space heaters.  Can you monitor your space in real time? and see whether the environment really goes haywire?  Unlikely, given the insulation and short timeframe but keeping an eye on things would help, and give you a sense of your building performance.  Good luck and keep us posted! :)



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    Eliza Gilligan
    Senior Book Conservator
    Center for Conservation of Art & Historic Artifacts
    Philadelphia, PA
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  • 5.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-14-2026 16:26

    Cara, thank you for asking the question - your concern for your collections is wonderful to see, as well as your use of C2CC for exactly what it was designed for.  I have been working with collections in the NorthEast for virtually all of my conservation career which spans more years than I care to think about.  For the last 30+ I have focused on smaller institutions such as historical societies, historic house museums, and local history facilities, with a smattering of the nationally-known ones thrown in.  Anyone who lives in this region has gone through power outages, often a number of days long, as one previous respondent mentioned.  We all have also seen local institutions that have no heat at all in the winter, either in the house or in the outbuildings where collections are located.  Some are not even open in the winter.  As pointed out, rapid fluctuations are of most concern.  Fluctuations are of two types, those that occur in the air of the rooms, and those of the objects themselves.  Air changes can occur relatively quickly in standard building construction - think of normal day to night fluctuations outdoors.  The building significantly slows those changes even when no HVAC systems are running.  The tightness of the exterior doors and windows are a major factor affecting the speed, and every building will vary dependent on many other factors.  A loss of heat for a day or two is on a relative basis fairly minor for most reasonably tight structures.  

    The second issue is how quickly the objects themselves respond to the changes in the air around them.  This of course varies greatly from object to object.  In general thinner items respond more quickly than thicker ones.  Certain materials types respond more quickly than others.  And some items are sensitive to a given amount of T and RH change and some are not, to the extreme of not responsive at all to these types of variations.

    So in summary, first the room air T and RH have to change.  Then the objects subjected to this different air will begin to change at different rates, or not at all depending on the material.  And this takes time, it is not instantaneous.  None of this is easy to assess in the whole of a building with collections.  So we generally have to look at past experiences.  The aforementioned power failures and fully unconditioned environments show that for short periods of time of a few days there is very little likelihood of perceptible damage to the collections.  I use the word perceptible since I am unaware of any procedure or equipment that can quantitatively measure damage over such a short period of time in a real-world setting like an historic house.  Over a year, yes.  Or even over a few months, perhaps.  So yes, isolate the upper levels from the first floor, which you would want to do for dust purposes anyway.  Before you shut the door, make sure all shades, curtains and interior shutters, if you have them, are closed fully to provide the maximum insulation from the outdoors.  Of course, verify that the windows are fully closed and storm windows if you have them are also fully closed.  You would be surprised how many I have found in similar situations that were still open in the winter - no one had checked.  And don't open doors into the isolated spaces unless necessary, including for a day or so after the work is completed.  Then fully open them back up.  In general, doors being open for air circulation prevents undesirable micro-climates in individual rooms.  And don't use space heaters as the slightly cooler T and higher RH that will result will actually be better preservation conditions than a heated space.  

    These are the basics.  With minimal effort you should be able to successfully weather your "power failure" for a few days.



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    Marc Williams, AIC Fellow
    American Conservation Consortium
    Broad Brook, CT
    acc@conservator.com
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  • 6.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 01-16-2026 07:41

    Hi Cara,

    Given the short duration of the shutdown and the fact that the building is described as well insulated (2008 construction), I would avoid using portable space heaters on the upper floor. Localized heaters can create uneven temperature and relative humidity conditions and may pose more risk-particularly to inkjet photographs and the wool textile-than a gradual, short-term temperature drop.

    Dropping below 10 °C (50 °F) in a single day would be unusual unless there is significant air leakage or doors and windows are opened for long periods. In a well-insulated building, the expected indoor temperature after a day without heating would more likely be in the range of approximately 12–18 °C (54–64 °F), depending on the quality of insulation.

    I would therefore recommend sealing and isolating the upper floor, keeping doors and windows closed, and allowing the space to cool slowly during the shutdown. If possible, monitoring conditions during the shutdown would be helpful. If work extends beyond one day, reassess and reheat only once dust-producing work is complete, using the central HVAC system rather than localized heating.



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    Andor Vince
    Collections Care Advisor
    Auckland
    New Zealand
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  • 7.  RE: climate control during renovations

    Posted 30 days ago
    As an additional note, consider the use of a self-contained, decontamination/dust down enclosure with zippered entry closures located just outside the immediate workspace. This should help minimize dust spread into the adjacent spaces by 1) providing a lay down area where dirty tools can remain until cleaned or bagged for removal, 2) providing an area where the workers can vacuum themselves off or change out of protective clothing before moving through the museum, and 3) providing an enclosed space for dust to settle out and be contained to minimize dust spread into the adjacent spaces and surfaces.
    Hope this helps,
    Catherine 


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    Catherine Hayes
    Conservator
    Heritage Sake
    Baywood-Los Osos
    United States
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